Your First Track Car

The reality is, I jumped into this sport and threw money at it. I needed this-and-that because I listened to everyone’s advice at the track. While it’s prudent to listen to counsel from those around you (and trust me, everyone has a perspective), I’ll give you your first piece of advice: listen. Don’t always act. Here are two potential problems with their perspective:

They might have a different car or driving style, which makes them favor different criteria. Do you like understeer? Do you like oversteer? Do you like a stiff suspension? You don’t know enough at this point to know if their perspective applies to you.
If they are able-bodied, they have an advantage: they can hop into different cars to experience various setups. People using hand controls cannot do that. Starting with the basics and adding different products gradually will allow you to experience the effects upgrades actually have.

The second piece of advice revolves around the two most important places to spend money in your first year: safety and seat time. Forget about the car. Forget about speed. Forget about racing. Every dime you have should go to either something that will keep you safe or make you a better driver (which I would also fold under the keeping-you-safe bucket).

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Car Types

Buying a car is an exercise in compromise. There will always be something faster, cooler, or better. I promise you, no matter how much research you do: you will not find the perfect car. It does not exist. For your first car, get something that moves! That’s it. “But, But, But, Torsten, I really want a……” NO! Overpowered cars will actually stop you from learning. There’s a reason why F1 drivers start with karting.

However, here are a few things to consider and lessons I’ve learned (many are hand-control-focused):

DCTs (BMWs) and PDKs (Porsches) are Dual Clutch Transmissions. These transmissions make drivers who use a car in automatic mode (mainly hand-controlled drivers) equal to everyone else because of how fast they shift. Can you use regular automatics? Sure. DCT and PDK are favorable. But to go back to my first statement, find anything that can drive.
Look nationally. Towing a car from FL to CT was $800. If you find what you want, transporting the car is worth it. Therefore, open your search criteria.
Before you buy, get a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection). If the seller won’t agree, that says something. It’s only $100-$200 but will save you from buying an obvious lemon.
The lower the mileage, the better, but don’t be scared of 80,000+ mileage cars. Remember, this is your first track car.
Wearables may be a bigger consideration than the actual cost of the car. Wearables (brake pads, rotors, etc.) and fluids (brake fluid, oil, etc.) are a big cost. Consider a European car (BMW, Audi, Porsche, VW, Mercedes). Why? At FCP Euro (Foreign Car Parts), you can return EVERYTHING and get store credit. Each item may not be individually costly, but brake fluid bottles, motor oil bottles, new brake pads, etc., add up! FCPEuro makes it all, well, free! (Before you jump at me saying “those cars are expensive,” consider that you can get a BMW 128 for $8,000. Great track car AND you now have all “free” products.)
Tires – Nothing on your car matters more than tires. They are what connect you to the ground. Spend money on great tires. TireRack is a great resource. We love Yokohama AO52s.

Hard rule: Build a safe car, THEN make it fast. Don’t build a fast car, then make it safe. You WILL run out of money making it fast and have nothing left over to make it safe. For your start, it’s beneficial to have a slower car anyway to learn.

People who start modifying their cars before they have a year of track time—fiddling with suspension, sway bars, wheels, etc.—are wasting their money. Why? They don’t know their driving style yet. Do you like oversteer? Understeer? Do you like hard suspension? Soft? You don’t know! Why pay all that money for something you “hear from track people” is worth it? And trust me, there is no shortage of suggestions from people as to how you can improve your car!

For now, buy the basics and spend every remaining dollar on seat time. You will know when it’s ready for an upgrade!

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The basics

Hand Controls

Some drive with left-hand brake/throttle. Others drive with right-hand brake/throttle. For track cars, I highly suggest these hand controls. From the solid mounting to the ability to give brake and throttle at the same time, to seating position which removes fatigue, the list goes on as to why right-hand controls are better. But don’t take my word for it. Most every driver that used to be a left-hand brake/throttle driver and tries right side becomes an evangelist.

My choice: Veigel Classic II Hand Controls

Knob

You will need a knob. Palming a steering wheel around the corner is incredibly dangerous. For extra consideration, think about using a tri-pin. While this is typically a tool for a quadriplegic, more and more paraplegics are using these because it locks in your wrist, removing an extra joint which causes fatigue. It will be interesting getting used to it, but in the long run, it’s way better with more control.

My choice: Mobility Innovations Steering Knob

Racing Seats

Street car seats, no matter how much bucket they have in them, will not work. You need extra support to stabilize your body, which has compromised stability, when going around a fast corner. More so, street car seats don’t have harnesses. This is going to keep you in the seat. But more on that later. Racing seats are fairly similar. What to look for:

Holes for the harnesses to go through.
Rigid is better than a movable back. However, it’s harder to get the chair in and out if you drive the car to/from the track.
Side supports are the most important part of a seat to counteract the g-forces in a corner.

My choice: OMP Champ-R Racing Seat

Harness

Harnesses, beyond the obvious safety factors, are crucial. They keep you locked into the racing seat so you can feel the car beneath you. Plus, they allow you to use your arms for driving, not balancing. Look for a 4 or 6-point harness.

My choice: G-Force FIA 6-Point Racing Harness

Note: For seats and harnesses, most organizations require you to have the same ones on both sides (passenger/driver) or at least of the same caliber to do track days.

Seat Bracket and Sliders

No specific examples provided as they will depend on the seat you buy. Seat brackets mount the race seat to the floor, and sliders make it easier to get in and out.

Leg Straps

It’s important to keep your legs contained. Yes, keeping them from the brake/throttle is the obvious reason, but the less they move, the more connected to the car you are. Install D-rings on the floor of the car and use 1” Velcro. Personally, I use one for my knee and one for my ankle. Make sure it is NOT industrial Velcro. In case of emergency, you want the track workers to be able to pull you out easily.

Example: Velcro D-Rings

Roll Bar / Harness Bar

You’ll need a harness bar or a roll bar. Yes, this is great protection if you, in the very unlikely event, roll your car (that said, most modern-day cars have incredibly strong roof supports, and therefore very little risk of having a roof collapse). The big reason is that they are what you attach harnesses to. You can do two things: bolt-in or custom. Bolt-ins roll bars are premade and are usually cheaper. Custom welds are a bit more expensive but safer. A harness bar attaches harnesses but does not offer any roof protection.

Helmet

If it has a SNELL rating, it’s good to go. The more you pay, the lighter they get and have bells and whistles. For now, get something that fits. If you are near a track shop, it’s always best to try one on. Note that motorcycle helmets are not allowed.

Example: B2 Vision EV SA2020 Helmet

HANS

These are not cheap but necessary. A HANS – Head And Neck restraint – makes sure you don’t break your neck. As someone who has broken his neck, let me be the first to say I think these are worth every dollar.

Example: HANS III SFI Device

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